For those that don't know that much about me, I have been a road traveler since I was a toddler. There was a little bit of sailboat traveling, but mainly I'm a land cruiser. Some was in a tent; Some was in a truck with a camper, and a lot was with a travel trailer. I consider it a very thorough way to see America. My tours have been confined to the western states for the most part, although a bit of Baja California was visited this same way. I introduced my wife to this as soon as we met, and it became our way instead of just my way. We had very modest RV's by todays standards, but always had the main components of home built in. As circumstances permitted, we increased our radius of travel, but mainly we did long weekends, and one or two week vacations as a maximum. Oregon, Nevada, and Arizona were always nice tours, as well as California's many unvisited locales, but we always fantasized about going to Florida's keys.
As business in California became more demanding to maintain, our trips shortened and were fewer in between. A few years pattern like this increased our desire to take a super vacation; One such as Florida or Yellowstone, that was long enough to take us away from our troubled world, and make up for lost outdoor opportunities. One target we had always discussed was Alaska. That great state offered everything an outdoor enthusiast could want in a northern climate, and still be in the US. We began to scheme and plan, coming close two times. Both were thwarted by the business climate again, but we did forge ahead by buying a new, big fifth wheel trailer in anticipation of making the trip. Once we even set out with it, but alas got only as far as the California Border, at which time the main manager I left in charge of my work fell suddenly ill, and passed out on the floor of the warehouse.
We persevered though, and in 1999, business started to recover from the California recession that pretty much broke our bank at home, we decided to go for it again. As the summer months neared, we sat down with maps and pamphlets to plan the trip. The month of June is the best time to set out for Alaska, as it would place us in the wilderness in the middle of summer. This time though we Elaines parents wanted wingman status, and purchased a new motorhome for the trip. This worked out pretty well all around, as when I was a kid and visited Alaska by camper, we had another family that toured with us in their rig too. Alaska can be very remote and hostile if you suffer a breakdown or other calamity. There's strength in numbers and that multiplies when it is family.
As the trip moved closer, it looked more like a certainty with each passing week. Then, disaster struck again. My business was located on the banks of the Sacramento River, a stones throw from Old Sacramento, but on the west side. For 11 years we had a select perch that pretty much nobody else wanted because the ground was contaminated and the area not conducive to development. All that changed when Baseball came to town. Suddenly, the Citiy of West Sac, a fledgling baseball association, and a desparate property owner came together and demanded I move 60 thousand square feet of equipment and displays that had taken years to put there, out right away.
We rebelled this time. Our trip was cast, and somehow, even in the face of outright abandonment, we were determined to go. The following is a day by day description of the events throughout our 6 weeks long trailer trip to the great northern state of Alaska. Sorry to say there are no pictures this time, as this was before the digital camera age, and the log is pretty much all I kept. I will post in installments every few days until the end.
I'll spare you the majority of the drama surrounding the business move, as it was pretty truamatic financially and mentally. We left town with a very uncertain future, bleak prospects, and crippled finances. But leave town we did
North To Alaska: Week 1
June 16th, 1999
We started out the morning at 5:00 a.m., organizing the equipment still to be loaded into the trailer. The blasted sprinklers watered the lawn just as I was getting outside, making one final cut of the back lawn too hard. I packed equipment, sorted tools, and waited for daylight so I could see the tire that still needed to be repaired on the trailer. Elaine made some brekkie as I jacked the trailer axle up and removed the propane tanks so they could be filled while I was at the tire shop. There was no time to waste since we had to meet with her parents at the first campsite in Ashland, Oregon, before our 2 kids went to bed. We ate together and moved right along to chores with little distraction. I dropped off the tires, filled the propane tanks; and scurried off to the attorney’s office. It was hard to part with all that cash, knowing we would be a long ways from help on our trip. But it was the only true way to get the liens lifted and all the money from the relocation project protected. After getting the paperwork filed, I went straight back to the tire shop and then straight home. There would be no allowance for distraction now. We loaded the final stocks and supplies; hooked up the trailer, and pointed north at the highest rate of speed the law would allow. It was around high noon once again and we had about 7 hours of road ahead of us.
I had left a great deal of work undone at my business, hoping to somehow do a bit of it on the road by using the cell phone and the computer online. I fretted for the first several days about leaving under those conditions. I especially worried about the money that we didn’t have and that which we were supposed to get. The first time I checked in, there were problems at work, but they were working through them. When I checked in with the attorney, I was told that the State was willing to release the liens on our existing bank accounts, but they were keeping the money. Although we had the law on our side, there is an old rule of possession being 9/10ths of the law. If we wanted the money back, we would have to file suit in federal court to get it.
As for the trip, Our first leg was pretty much old, dull, highway 5 north miles. A steady speed up to Ashland where we met Elaine's parents and our kids. The campground was just a plane Jane type along the roadway. We saw some deer alongside the freeway just before we left California. When we arrived at the campground at around dusk, we met up with our kids and my in-laws. While visiting them, and seeing there brand new motor home, I heard the very distinctive hissing of air leaking out of one of his new tires. Sure enough he had the first flat tire of the trip on the way. Fortunately there was a tire repair place just a few miles away and a phone call was all it took to get the thing fixed.
June 17th
We made some more hard miles through Oregon to Washington state. We experienced loss of power with the truck just a few miles south of the campground we stayed at just above Vancouver and I decided to investigate.
June 18th
On the morning of the 18th, I abandoned everyone in the campground to visit the Dodge dealership 8 miles south to Vancouver. I was at the doorstep at opening time and they had me evaluated within 40 minutes. The bad news was, there was also a leak in the right front wheel bearing. A sizable one at that. After giving it some careful thought, I thought it best to have it repaired now. The road to Alaska is a difficult one and there are too few opportunities for parts in the remote areas. I had the front brakes changed before leaving Sacramento, along with adding the new 88 gallon fuel tank for safety. The front wheel bearing was most likely damaged when they removed the front rotors. Coincidentally, the fuel tank installation fell short of something as well since that seemed to be causing the power loss. I didn’t have enough time to research this all the way right now.
We were able to get on the road by 1:00 p.m. and continue north to our first stop in Canada. About half way through Washington we drove right through a traveling swarm of bees. A few hundred of them were splattered all over the truck and trailer. We traveled through some of the most fertile farm land I have had the displeasure to smell, within a 20 mile radius of the border. We entered B.C. at a quaint little town called Abbottsford, and pulled into the campground at dusk. The smell of manure permeated the air as we hooked up our trailer connections. There was water, sewer, electricity, and cable t.v.. A heated pool was within splashing distance and a spa sent its’ vapors wafting skyward like a bouquet of balloons. All you had to do was get past the smell and you had it licked.
June 19th
We set out again towards the northeast. Canada was now beginning to show signs of remoteness. Fuel stations were smaller and fewer and with each passing kilometer, (yes, I said Kilometer), the prices escalated about 1/10th of a cent. The mighty Fraser river was our guide as we wound around mountains and hills. We are steadily climbing in altitude and the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floorboard so often I wish I could just glue it there for the duration. We took our lunch at a rest stop and hunted through rocks for hidden geological treasures. The stop we made for the evening was a small private trailer camp with complete hook ups all around. There was a school nearby so we took advantage of the playground facilities both that evening and the next morning. The kids especially liked the teeter totter.
June 20th
After a brief breakfast in the trailer, We warmed up the engines for the days ride. We are still having power loss on the rear tank, but it mostly happens when traveling up steep hills. To compensate, I switch between tanks when going down or uphill. It’s annoying but it does allow us to use the big tank and make fewer fuel stops. Today, there are numerous Black Bear, Moose, and Deer sightings all throughout the day. Mothers with cubs and calves are frequently spotted. One particular 30 mile stretch of road seems to be especially attractive to these animals as we see them grazing or foraging right alongside the road. After choosing a shortcut that will take us by a provincial park, we opt for the advertised full service 30 amp hookups at a lakeside resort. Much to our disappointment, there was only 30 amp electrical hookup and no water or sewer. Nor was there a dump station. I think the full service hookup is more than just a bit misleading when all of this is considered. The resort did have free firewood, rental paddle boats, and small showers. We took a paddle boat out for the half hour tour as Joey and Sara fought over the steering rights and finished the evening smoking our clothes around a warm camp fire. The mosquitoes were plenty thick and really hungry. It was here we first noticed the sun was staying out much longer than before.
June 21st
Today we have a pretty casual day with only a few mountain sheep and moose being seen. By now we have a points system in place for each animal type; the first sighting of the day; and for seeing 2 types of animals in the same area. But there are few points awarded today and the only thing we end up looking forward to is the campsite this afternoon with its’ full hook ups and Laundromat. A large "Good Sam" convoy is gathering here for the night too. There are at least 75 different trailers and motor homes here already, and more on the way. The kids ride their bikes around the lot as Ray and I try to change our currency for Canadian and find some auto accessories. One of the most important is the siphon hose to move the fuel from the rear tank to the front tank. Also, new windshield wipers as the bugs this time of the year have pushed our already weak ones over the edge. Later, we all go to the newer restaurant in town and try the local food. My personal taste buds were not impressed. The kids are getting the first taste of eating in a smoking section. Yes, up here in the north, smokers are still in the majority. The water here has a real earthy or mossy taste to it, but they do let the kids play with electronic games as we wait for the food. Our evening gives us the first hint of the coming long summer daylight hours as we go off to bed before the darkness really sets in.
June 22nd
Our goal today is to make it to Liard Hot Springs before the 50 or so campsites are taken. Many of the trailers and motor homes from the big convoy have already left by 7:00 a.m. and Elaine is especially concerned about them gobbling up every spot before we arrive. I am being hurried this morning and I won’t get a chance to siphon the fuel to the main tank.
Once on the road, I spare no drop of fuel to get past every Good Sam vehicle with a number emblazoned on its’ front. I have to treat them like the enemy for now or we could end up sitting in a mud hole alongside the road and walking a mile to get to the hot springs. I am encouraged by the progress for the first hour, but then a long, long line of vehicles becomes visible as we round a bend and tilt slightly downhill. They are stopping traffic and convoying vehicles through a construction site in the road. Later, this would prove to be a rock slide. A half hour is lost here, but I throttle up the Cummins engine to once again pass all the lumbering beasts as they climb the coming hills. My first multiple passes are soon surpassed by my first multiple vehicle passes at one time. I feel like king of the road and there will be no stopping his majesty while en route to the royal baths. Guess what? ...Our brute strength has paid off. We make it with sites to spare, and decent choices at that. There are no hookups, no flush toilets, and the only water has to be hand pumped on an old, nearly antique metal pump, rusted and corroded from exposure to the elements. None of this proves to be a problem. The mineral springs are about a quarter mile up a slightly elevated wooden planked pathway. There is lush foliage, and small wildlife everywhere. The smell of sulfur dioxide is present, but not overwhelming and the surroundings seem almost sub tropical. The baths there are just like a wide stream bed with several small pools just deep enough for people to stand in up to waist deep water. Where the water boils to the surface, it is too hot for humans, but as the water flows away from this area, it mixes with some streams flowing off the surface of the mountains to buffer the temperature a few more degrees for every 10 feet or so. It is not hard to find a perfect area to suit your particular needs at any moment, for you adjust the temperature by simply dog paddling down or upstream. We stay in for hours and return for a final dip the next morning. It is more relaxing than a spa because you have so much room there and there are plants, flowers, chirping birds, and someone reported a moose grazing in the warm marsh as they walked by. We all predict that this is destined to be one of the highlights of our trip. After our morning dip, we hike to the lodge across the street for a true roadhouse breakfast. This is a small lodge with an attached restaurant The menu is short. The service is casual at best, and the food would only be acceptable to a road weary traveler. But it doesn’t have to be any better than mediocrity since they have location, location, location.
June 23
One more time we make our getaway from a campground relatively early. There are many road miles to get behind us as we pass slower moving travelers in pursuit of our Alaskan destination. There are few stops today and a great deal more 65 and 70 miles per hour periods of uninterrupted travel. Little game is spotted on this leg of the journey, but there have been reports of a beautiful lake with an unusual shade to it. One of our stops is Watson Lake where I try to find some new windshield wiper blades at the Napa Auto Parts store. Across the street are rows and rows of 20 foot tall square posts with multiple signs tourists have posted one over another for many years. I remember stopping here as a teenager over 30 years ago and posting a sign then. Most of the signs are showing signs of deterioration after less than 10 years, however a lighthearted search is conducted just for the sake of curiosity. We make our planned campsite at Teslin in the late afternoon by the side of a medium sized lake stocked with extra large, hungry mosquitoes. Teslin turns out to be a mere village with no services but a trading post. We spend only what is necessary to get by for the evening, and trip on back to raid our own pantry for the evening meal. Some extra daylight hours are spent giving the trailer a going over, as some weaknesses are becoming evident. Screws come loose. Some wires are rubbing through the insulation, and lubrication is in order at just about every visible moving metal part. The kids frolic among the camps amenities and showers are taken. This campsites’ services are pretty clean overall. Since we have come so far north this summer, the sun is setting for only an hour or 2 every night. It makes the sleeping difficult, especially for the kids who still use darkness as a trigger for their body clocks. Elaine and I have some trouble sleeping too, and to add to the sunlight problem, a hungry mosquito is patrolling the airways in our room carelessly buzzing our heads while relentlessly probing for weak spots in our protective cocoon made of blankets and OFF.
Continued soon